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Introduction
Rolex needs no introduction. A pioneer in the field of dive-watches, the Rolex Submariner is the most-imitated watch in the entire world. In fact, it’s one of the most instantly recognizable watches of the last century. For many hobbyists, the Submariner is the ultimate grail, a watch that many spend a life-time saving for and pursuing.
Some may do it for the “status” that wearing a Rolex affords – but to do so would be selling yourself short. For the true watch aficionado, owning a Sub is a ticket to owning an important piece of dive-watch history. Not many other watches can lay claim to the long and interesting story that belongs to this iconic dive watch.
For vintage watch fans, finding the perfect vintage Sub is all about the details. Rolex is a very experimental company, and because of that you see many variations within each reference. It’s part of what makes collecting Submariners so interesting and rewarding. And of course, each individual piece can carry with it a unique story of it’s original owner that only adds to the appeal.
This is not an exhaustive guide. We spend just a few paragraphs for each model, intending to give would-be collectors a general overview of the Submariner lineage. There are many resources online that provide a deep-dive into the history of an individual reference, and all of the nuances of that particular model’s evolution. Many details in this guide are disputed or in disagreement from different sources, but we’ve done our best to compile the most accurate information available.
Pre-owned Buying Tips:
- Buy the Seller: Like with most pre-owned watch transactions, make sure you are buying from a reputable seller before making an offer. Sellers who post prolifically in Rolex communities (like RolexForums, or VintageRolexForum) can often be verified by other members of the community.
- Watch for Replacement Parts: Many vintage Rolexes have been serviced at some point in their lifetimes. Often times, worn parts like the hands, dial, or bezel are replaced with NOS Rolex replacement parts. This can create strange incongruencies, like Superluminova hands over a tritium dial. Make sure you ascertain the age of each individual part before paying full-price. All original models fetch top-dollar, of course.
- Verify the Engravings: Most Rolex parts have engraved serial numbers or model numbers. This includes the movement, the case, and the bracelet. Detailed pictures of these engravings can help you tell if a part is an original or a replacement. The actual reference number for the watch is often found between the lugs, so be sure to verify that as well.
- Ensure Papers and Boxes Match: Some sellers attempt to put together a full box-set using receipts, papers, or materials found on eBay. Don’t be fooled. Ensure that each of the supporting documents lines up with the reference you are trying to acquire.
For more detailed buying tips, check out Hodinkee’s fantastic article: 9 Basic Things You Should Always Look At Before Buying a Vintage Rolex.
Vintage Rolex Submariner Models
| Reference | Material | Year | Movement | Date | Rarity | Used Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6204 | Steel | 1953 – 1954 | A260 | Extremely Rare | $20k – $30k | |
| 6200 | Steel | 1954 – 1955 | A296 | Extremely Rare | $115k – $225k | |
| 6205 | Steel | 1953 – 1957 | A260 | Extremely Rare | $20k – $40k | |
| 6536 | Steel | 1955 – 1959 | 1030 | Rare | $15k – $25k | |
| 6536/1 | Steel | 1955 – 1959 | 1030 | Rare | $15k – $25k | |
| 6538 | Steel | 1955 – 1959 | 1030 | Rare | $90k – $120k | |
| 5510 | Steel | 1958 – 1959 | 1530 | Rare | $80k – $120k | |
| 5508 | Steel | 1958 – 1962 | 1530 | Rare | $16,310 – $24,215 | |
| 5512 | Steel | 1959 – 1978 | 1530, 1560, 1570 | Rare | $12,049 – $33,994 | |
| 5513 | Steel | 1962 – 1990 | 1520, 1530 | Common | $7,675 – $12,609 | |
| 5514 | Steel | 1972 – 1978 | 1520, 1530 | Rare | $58,452 – $118,717 | |
| 1680 | Steel | 1967 –1979 | 1570 | Common | $6,281 – $9,344 | |
| 16800 | Steel | 1979 – 1988 | 3035 | Common | $5,646 – $8,000 | |
| 16803 | Gold/Steel | 1983 – 1988 | 3035 | Common | $6475 – $7929 | |
| 16618 | Gold | 1988 – 2001 | 3035 | Common | $16,995 – $20,821 |
Modern Rolex Submariner Models
| Reference | Material | Year | Movement | Date | Rarity | Used Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 116618LN | Gold/Ceramic | 2010 – Present | 3035 | In-Production | $24,921 – $27,054 | |
| 116618LB | Gold | 2010 – Present | 3035 | In-Production | $22,750 – $24,895 | |
| 116613LB | Gold/Steel | 2010 – Present | 3135 | In-Production | $10,394 – $11,300 | |
| 116613LN | Gold/Steel | 2010 – Present | 3135 | In-Production | $8,895 – $10,300 | |
| 16610 | Steel | 1987 – 2010 | 3030 | Common | $4,750 — $5,613 | |
| 14060 | Steel | 1990 – 2012 | 3030 | Common | $4,399 — $4,950 | |
| 14060M | Steel | 1998 – 2012 | 3130 | Common | $4,581 — $5,556 | |
| 114060 | Steel/Ceramic | 2012 – Present | 3130 | In-Production | $5,875 — $6,350 | |
| 16610LV | Steel | 2000 – 2009 | 3135 | Common | $7,675 — $12,725 | |
| 116610LV | Steel/Ceramic | 2010 – Present | 3135 | In-Production | $7,650 — $8,150 |
Pricing data pulled from latest sales on WatchPatrol, Ebay, and Chrono24
Rolex Submariner Models
Rolex Submariner 6204
| Size: | 36.5mm x 18mm | Movement: | A260 |
| Year: | 1953 – 1954 | Rarity: | Extremely Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 100M | Used Price: | $20k – $30k |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 6204
60 years ago, Rolex released the first Submariner, a watch that would later become a world-wide icon. The simple dial was inscribed with only the logo and words: “Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Submariner”, surrounded by a beautiful “gilt” dial and chapter ring. The “pencil-shaped” hands seen here were only produced for a year before being replaced with the now standard “Mercedes” style hands, making this particular model extremely unique.
Like most vintage Submariners, there are a few different variations of this model, with small differences seen on the dial and bezel markings. Many believe that Jaques Cousteau wore this model in his early expeditions, adding to the model’s historical importance.
Seeing as many of these watches were worn hard and used underwater, you’re not likely to see one in good condition come up on the secondary market anytime soon.
Rolex Submariner 6205
| Size: | 36.5mm x 18mm | Movement: | A260 |
| Year: | 1953 – 1957 | Rarity: | Extremely Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 100M | Used Price: | $20k – $40k |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 6205
The 6205 was the second iteration of the 6204, released just a year after the model’s debut. Here we now see the iconic dial and hand combination that would remain virtually unchanged for over half a century. Another early model that was only produced for a few years, this reference is extremely rare. Sharing the gilt/radium dial, movement, case and bezel of it’s predecessor, this model can be considered a small evolutionary step in the development of the legendary Submariner.
Although not as popular with collectors as the 5510 and 6538 big crowns, the 6205 remains a landmark in the evolution of the submariner design language.
Rolex Submariner 6536
| Size: | 37.5mm x 18mm | Movement: | 1030 |
| Year: | 1955 – 1959 | Rarity: | Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 100M | Used Price: | $15k – $25k |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 6536
The Rolex Submariner 6536 builds on the success of it’s small-crown predecessors with a slight increase in case size to 38mm. In addition to that, the A260 movement was eventually replaced (in the 6536-1) with the new 1030, Rolex’s first bi-directional automatic movement. It should be noted that the 1030 eventually became Rolex’s first officially certified chronometer grade movement – a detail revealed by a “Officially Certified Chronometer” line printed on the dial.
Some other minor details to watch for: The “red-depth rating” 6536 – which has “100m = 330ft” printed in red text on the dial – is an ultra-rare variation of this model. It is said that only a handful of them are reported to exist, with examples fetching a massive premium at auction.
Rolex Submariner 6538
| Size: | 38mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1030 |
| Year: | 1955 – 1959 | Rarity: | Extremely Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 200M | Used Price: | $90k – $120k |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 6538
Enter the Submariner 6538, the first of the Submariner “Big Crown” models which are so prized by collectors. Worn famously by Sean Connery’s 007 in “Dr. No”, this model regular fetches astronomical six figure prices at auction.
There were several variations of the 6536, with both 2-line and 4-lines of text printed on the bottom of the dial. Keep in mind, the original bezels had a red triangle at 12 o’clock, which seems to be completely faded away in many vintage examples.
The 6538 was also the first Rolex to be rated at 200m, this would not change until the 1980’s with the release of the 300-meter rated 16800.
Rolex Submariner 5510
| Size: | 38mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1530 |
| Year: | 1958 – 1959 | Rarity: | Extremely Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 100M | Used Price: | $80k – $120k |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 5510
The rarest of the “big-crown” vintage Rolexes, the 5510 was only produced for a year or two before being replaced by the larger cased 5512/5513. Estimates show that only 400 – 600 5510s were ever produced.
This watch also utilized a new movement, the Rolex Calibre 1530. Similar in many ways to the 6358, the 5510 employed a thicker case (to accommodate the new movement) and a slightly different curve and shape to the lugs.
Rolex Submariner 5508
| Size: | 38.5mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1530 |
| Year: | 1958 – 1962 | Rarity: | Extremely Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 100M | Used Price: | $16,310 – $24,215 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 5508
The mysterious 5508 was the last of the Rolex “small-crown” (and no crown-guard) Subs to be produced. Keep an eye out for the “exclamation point” dials, a subtle (yet extremely rare) feature found in only a small subset of the 5508’s. At 6 o’clock, there is a very small luminous dot below the rectangle that makes it look like an “exclamation mark”.
While the 5508 marked a company trend towards standardization, it was also the last of the Subs to carry many of the watches original characteristics.
Rolex Submariner 5512
| Size: | 38.5mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1530, 1560, 1570 |
| Year: | 1959 – 1978 | Rarity: | Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 200M | Used Price: | $12,049 – $33,994 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 5512
The 5512 and 5513 enjoyed a very long run as Rolex production watches. Both contained movements based on the calibre 1530, and finishing on the case, bracelet and movement were more or less equal.
These models marked the introduction of the “crown-guard”, a protective steel protrusion designed to protect the crown stem from shock. This design element would become standard on the Submariner for all future generations.
The 5512 ceased production in 1978, while the 5513 lived on. This limited run on production has caused prices for the 5512 to exceed the 5513 by some margin, although both can be had in the low 5-figures.
Rolex Submariner 5513
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1520, 1530 |
| Year: | 1962 - 1990 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 200M | Used Price: | $7,675 – $12,609 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 5513
The Submariner 5513 enjoyed quite a few minor evolutions during it’s epic 40 year run. In 1966, the “gilt gloss” dial was replaced with a “meters first” matte dial. A “non-serif” version of the typography printed on the dial was introduced in 1970. And in 1976, the size of the lume plots were increased (known by collector’s as the “Maxi-Dial”).
Because of it’s long production history, the 5513 is relatively common and easy to find. Still, it commands a premium over it’s more modern counterparts. Additionally, the many iterations and slight detail changes on the 5513 make it one of the more interesting vintage Rolex Submariners to collect.
Rolex Submariner 5514
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1520, 1530 |
| Year: | 1972 – 1978 | Rarity: | Rare |
| Depth Rating: | 200M | Used Price: | $58,452 – $118,717 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 5514
The Submariner 5514 is essentially a special release of the 5513 issued specifically for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) divers, a French company specializing in engineering and deep diving operations.
The difference between the 5514 and the civilian 5513 is the existence of a HEV (helium escape valve) on the side of the case, a feature reserved for deep-sea saturation divers who had to worry about the watch becoming pressurized inside their suits.
This is an extremely rare model, with production numbers limited to only 150 pieces. Prepare to pay exorbitant prices for one in good condition.
Rolex Submariner 1680
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 1570 |
| Year: | 1967 - 1979 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 200M | Used Price: | $6,281 – $9,344 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 1680
Before 1967, Rolex considered a “date” to be a fairly useless feature on a dive watch. And they’d be right, except for the fact that the majority of their actual customers didn’t take their watch diving.
So in the 1680, we get the famous Rolex date window complete with the “cyclops”, a magnifying bubble attached directly to the crystal to magnify the date window.
Amongst collector’s the date window is a very divisive feature, luckily there are plenty of no-date versions to choose from for those who can’t quite warm up to it.
Rolex Submariner 16800
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3035 |
| Year: | 1983 - 1988 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $5,646 – $8,000 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 16800
The Rolex 16800 is considered a transitional model by many, and was the first Rolex Submariner to sport a sapphire crystal and high-beat movement.
Being transitional, it has a combination of elements that vintage and modern collectors look for – matte dial, tritium lume, and modern sapphire crystal. This is sometimes seen as a less desirable feature as it doesn’t fully appeal to collector’s in either camp.
For what it’s worth, this model was also the first model to be rated to 300m. It combines the vintage aesthetics of the old subs with the modern capabilities of the new ones, a great value at $5 – $8k.
Rolex Submariner 16610
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3135 |
| Year: | 1987 – 2010 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $4,750 — $5,613 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 16610
And now begins the modern Submariner era with the Rolex 16610. Retaining many of the stylistic trademarks of it’s predecessors, the 16610 employs a new dial using white gold to surround the markers. Here we see the Submariner begin to shed a bit of it’s tool-watch aesthetic to appease the luxury buyers in search of a bit more “bling”.
Don’t get me wrong, this is still an essential sub and a rugged mechanical watch to boot. The Calibre 3135 is considered one of the most reliable and accurate movements on the market today, and at $4 – $5k it remains one of the most attainable models in the line.
Rolex Submariner 16610LV
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3135 |
| Year: | 2000 – 2009 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $7,675 — $12,725 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 16610LV
Marking the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Submariner line, the Rolex 16610LV is known by some collector’s as the “Kermit”. Not to be confused with the “Hulk”, the 16610LV is one of Rolex’s two iconic green watches. This particular model differs from the ‘Hulk’ with it’s standard black dial and green bezel, as opposed to the matching green dial and bezel of it’s younger sibling.
Other than the color variations, the ‘Kermit’ shares it’s specifications with the 16610 – a 40mm 904L stainless steel case, maxi-dial, 3135 movement, trip-lock crown and tapered 20mm bracelet make it a classic sub with a twist.
Rolex Submariner 14060
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3030 |
| Year: | 1990 – 2012 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $4,399 — $4,950 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 14060
Introduced in 1990, the 14060 brought back the purity and simplicity of the “no-date” dial. With the date and cyclops now gone, the 14060 exhibits a perfection of dial symmetry that represents what may be the essential form of a dive watch dial.
In 1998, Rolex replaced the radioactive tritium with superluminova. Other than that, it remained relatively unchanged throughout it’s production.
Rolex Submariner 14060M
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3130 |
| Year: | 1998 – 2012 | Rarity: | Common |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $4,581 — $5,556 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 14060M
In 1999, the Submariner 14060 transitioned to the model 14060m. What’s the difference? Not much. They are exactly the same apart from a movement upgrade, replacing the 3030 movement with the new and improved calibre 3130.
The calibre 3130 comes with a Breguet overcoil and a full balance bridge, which offered a bit more shock resistance and stability.
At around $4500, the 14060 and 14060m are the best values of the available Rolex Submariners. It has the proportions and design of the vintage classics, along with the quality and materials of modern Rolexes. Truly a perfect sport watch.
Rolex Submariner 114060
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3130 |
| Year: | 2012 – Present | Rarity: | In Production |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $5,875 — $6,350 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 114060
Introduced in 2012, the Submariner “No-Date” 114060 is a design iteration on the classic 14060 sub. Upgrading it’s aluminum insert for a black cerachrom (ceramic) bezel, an upgraded bracelet, and a slightly upgraded case – the 114060 might be the ultimate generation of the Submariner for the purist modern collector.
The upgraded oyster bracelet features Rolex’s new generation of OYSTERLOCK safety clasp and glidelock dive extension, allowing for fine adjustments in 2mm increments without using any tools. The ceramic bezel also gives that watch a much higher quality feel than the older aluminum inserts. These watches can be purchased second-hand for around $6k, but are also available new.
Rolex Submariner 116610LV
| Size: | 40mm x 20mm | Movement: | 3135 |
| Year: | 2010 – Present | Rarity: | In-Production |
| Depth Rating: | 300M | Used Price: | $7,650 — $8,150 |
| Find Used: | WatchPatrol or Ebay | ||
Rolex Submariner 116610LV
Fitted with a green cerachrom bezel and matching green sunburst dial, the Rolex Submariner 116610LV ‘Hulk’ has become an iconic reference in it’s own right. Popular with fashionistas and tool watch fan’s alike, this green dive watch is one of the most unique and eye-catching submariner models you can buy.
The watch is produced using some very interesting manufacturing processes – including the much higher quality green ceramic bezel, which requires a very precise and laborious method. It’s not a watch for everybody, and some may think you are “trying too hard”, but it’s hard to argue with the uniqueness of this green dive watch.
Additional Resources
- A Comprehensive Review of the 5513 Matte Dial
- Gilt-Gloss 5512 Submariner
- In-Depth Review: First Rolex Submariner 6204
- An Iconic Trendsetter: The Rolex Submariner, Reference 6205
- Hands-On with the Rolex Submariner 16610
- Rolex Submariner ‘Big Crown’ Tropical Dial Ref. 6538 Watch With A Long History (And A James Bond 007 Connection)
A special thanks to HQMilton for allowing me to use their beautiful vintage watch photos.
About the Author
Comments 14
Very Disappointing that there is no mention of the Iconic Submariner 16613 ?
Author
Good call, not sure how I missed that one. Will look at updating the guide!
what about 168000
You also forgot the 6200. The first big crown with the explorer dial
My Rolex ref #6205 was a gift from my dad in 1967, the dial black comes with only the letters rolex under the 12 , pencil hands , oyster perpetual letters ,the serial # start 22 ,any help with information on this particular 64 years old time pice and still working fine
Interesting!
Feel free to send me images to me at yourdailydrinks@gmail.com and I could help with some more information if you’d like.
Outdated now for the 116610LV, should ammend the pricing for that as it is much higher now, around 13k
Early 1990’s 14060 had the Caliber 3000.
I had Submariner 16610 but movement is 3035 it’s original or Frankenstein model.
The photo for the1680 is of a “Red Label”. Were all 1680’s manufactured with the red lettering? Many thanks.
Hello
do you have any opinion on the 14060m with the long F? is it common or do you consider it to be rare?
Thanks !
THANKS
– for the guide, very usefull, indeed.
I see in the comments you missed some models at first shot, but I find it short, informative and usefull for a beginner.
I’ll use it in my search for a used/vintage Rolex.
Please, dont forget to update if you find any relevant updating, eg. prices etc.
Best regards
Jacob
Hello and thank you for this guide the contents of which are very useful , I did enjoy reading .
Super report and fascinating to read . This will help my understanding of the Rolex submariner watch .